Okay, I don’t have “unidentified flying objects” although somethings I wish I do. UFO if you don’t already know stands for “unfinished object” according to cool crochet language. For some reason, there’s literally 10 UFOs on my desk and I have no clue how they got there!

Alright, I lied. I put them there. But what stumps me is why there are so many. I mean I wake up one day and impulsively start something new. What am I thinking? I already have my desk full of yarn projects that are just waiting to be finished. All they need is a couple more rows or to be sewn together. Do you have UFOs too?

This headband is made with size 10 thread and is designed to fit any women or child’s head. The pretty lacey center is crocheted first then small straps are sewn on to secure the headband in the back of the head, while still making it adjustable for the different sizes. This headband can be worn everyday to keep your hair in place or for the special occasion when you need a touch of lace for your outfit. Follow the instructions below to get started.

Skill Level: Finished Size: 2” (5 cm) wide, 10” (25.5 cm) long not including straps Note: you may alter the size of the headband if desired by following the instructions within the pattern Materials: Size 10 Thread Crochet Hook US 1 (2.35 mm) Sewing Needle

Gauge: not really important

Need help reading the crochet pattern? Learn more about how to read crochet patterns.

Crochet Pattern: Head Band
Start by chaining 84 or a chain that is a multiple of 6
Row 1: ch 1, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, ch 3, skip 3 ch, (sc in next 3 ch, ch 3, skip next 3 ch) across, sc in last 2 ch
Row 2: ch 1, turn, (5 dc in next ch-3 space, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc) across, sc in last st
Row 3: ch 3, turn, skip 2 sts, sc in next 3 dc, (ch 3, skip next 3 sts, sc in next 3 dc) across, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in last st
Row 4: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in ch-2 space, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, (5 dc in next ch-3 space, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc) across, 3 dc in last ch-3 space
Row 5: ch 1, turn, skip 1 dc, sc in next dc, (ch 3, skip 3 sts, sc in next 3 dc) across, ch 3, skip 3 sts, sc in last 2 sts

Repeat rows 2 – 5, two times stop after row 4 on last repeat.

Strap (make 2)
Start by chaining 12 or a chain that is wide as the headband
Row 1: ch 2, dc in third ch from hook and in each ch across: 12 dc
Row 2: ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc in next 8 dc, dc2tog: 10 dc
Row 3: ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc in next 6 dc, dc2tog: 8 dc
Row 4: ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog: 6 dc
Row 5: ch 2, turn, dc2tog, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog: 4 dc
Row 6: ch 2, turn, dc in each dc across: 4 dc

Repeat row 6, 40 times or until strap is as long as desired.

Sew strap to side of headband with a sewing needle.

To wear the headband, place on head and tie the straps in the back. If desired, you may choose not the create straps, instead make headband long enough to fit around head and sew ends together.

If you need help crocheting this headband, let me know and I’ll be glad to help!

Here is a cute, fuzzy bowl to crochet! This a small project that is great for practicing and learning how to felt if you’re a beginner. This bowl can be crocheted really fast using your scrap yarn. Just make sure to use yarn made of 100% animal fibers, such as wool, or else I won’t felt. Have fun and happy felting!

Skill Level:

Finished Size:
Not felted: 4 ½” (11.5 cm) diameter, 3 ¼” (8.5 cm) tall
Felted: 4 ¼” (11 cm) diameter, 2 ½” (6.5 cm) tall
Note that felted size may vary based on type/brand of yarn and felting method.

Materials:
Medium Weight Yarn (approximately 75 yards of 100% wool or other felt-able material)
Crochet Hook I (5.50 mm)

Crochet Pattern: Bowl
Round 1: ch 4, 12 dc in forth ch form hook, sl st in top of ch-3 joining to beginning of round: 12 dc
Round 2: ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around, sl st in top of ch-3: 24 dc
Round 3: ch 3, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc) around, sl st in top of ch-3: 36 dc
Round 4: ch 3, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc) around, sl st in top of ch-3: 48 dc
Round 5 – 9: ch 3, dc in each dc around, sl st in top of ch-3: 48 dc

Finish off and tuck in ends. Felt as desired or use felting instructions as a guide. Block crochet to shape your bowl.

If you need help with crocheting and felting this bowl, let me know and I’ll be happy to help!

Felting is the process of agitating something made with natural animal fibers under heat to create a matted fabric called felt. Lots of crafters, crocheters and knitters, enjoy felting their projects to give them a new and different look. By felting your work, you create a smooth texture, erasing stitch definition and reducing the size of the finished object. A felted project is often times stronger and sturdier than before it was felted. Felting is a really easy process!

Although there are many techniques for felting, the basic idea is to agitate your item in hot water and let it dry. Here are some common methods to consider.
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Blocking crochet is the process of “molding” your finished work into the shape that you desire. For example, you may want to block your crocheted bag so that it keeps a nice, sharp bag shape. Different techniques can be used for blocking your work depending on the type of yarn you used and the shape of the object being blocked. Here are some general guidelines to follow.

Step 1: Lay the item you want to block into the shape you want it to be. You may choose to use pins to hold your item in place. Try using pins that won’t rust. There are also boards specifically made for blocking, but you can use any surface that works for you. A layer of towels is great for adsorbing water and placing pins into.

Step 2: Wet it. Blocking is done be wetting your item and letting it dry. The method for wetting your item will depend on the type of yarn you are using. Check the yarn label for special instruction to make sure that you don’t violate any. You may choose to use a spray bottle to wet your item. You can also choose to steam your item using an iron. Since some materials should not be ironed, the safest way to block is via the spray bottle. You can also switch steps 1 and 2 and use the sink to wet the item.

Step 3: Let it dry. After your item is dry, it should be blocked!

Do you have a blocking tip? Fell free the share it by leaving it as a comment!

The slouchy beanie can be worn in many different styles. Slouch it to the front to form a floppy brim, slouch it to the back for a relaxed look, or to the side as a traditional beret. This beanie is able to fit my head, which is small, and my friend’s large head since it’s made to be loose and roomy. Just in case you find that it doesn’t fit the way you like, there are instructions for altering the beanie in the pattern.

Skill Level:

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I’ve been felting and it’s pretty fun! Recently I made a purse and a bowl. Yes, a bowl… lol. At first I thought it was silly to make a crocheted bowl, but then I thought it might be cute. Lets just say that I won’t be putting it in the dishwasher so I have to make sure it doesn’t get too dirty. Other than that, I really like my little felted bowl!

So, that’s enough of me rambling about a bowl. My question to you all wonderful crocheters out there is what do you like to felt? bags? bowls? clothing? Or if you haven’t felted yet, what are you waiting for?

Double crochets are like the long version of single crochets! If you are just beginning to learn how to crochet and have not learned single crochets yet, I would suggest learning how to crochet single crochets first. After that double crochets will be a piece of cake! In a nut shell, here what you have to do: Yo, insert hook into stitch, yo, draw through 1 lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, yo, draw through final 2 lps on hook

If that doesn’t makes sense that’s okay! Here is a picture tutorial of what to do. This tutorial is for both right and left handed people. For left handed pictures, roll your mouse over the image and it will change for you.

First I’m going to start out with a small swatch. Just use a piece of work you want to practice your double crochets on. You can even start out with a chain as long as you desire. Note that when you make a new row of double crochets you must chain 3 before starting your double crochets. This ensures that the beginning of your row will be the same height as the rest of your row.

Step 1: Yarn over (wrap the yarn around your hook)

Step 2: Insert your hook into the stitch you want to make your double crochet in.

A double crochet decrease is the same thing as double crocheting a number of stitches together; for example, dc2tog. You may also see a double crochet decrease abbreviated as “2-dc dec” in a crochet pattern. However, you can do decrease on more than just 2 stitches at a time.

In a nut shell, here what you have to do: (Yo, insert hook, yo, draw lp through, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook) in each of the sts indicated, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

If that doesn’t makes sense that’s okay! Here is a picture tutorial of what to do. This tutorial is for both right and left handed people. For left handed pictures, roll your mouse over the image and it will change for you.

First I’m going to start out with a small swatch of double crochets. (You don’t have to. Just use a piece of work you want to practice your decreases on)

Step 1: Yarn over (wrap the yarn around your hook)

Step 2: Insert your hook into the first stitch that you want to work the decrease on.

I made these wrist warmers to practice changing colors in Tunisian crochet. Changing colors in crochet is really easy and the same principles still hold when you change colors in Tunisian. I really like the way the colors look especially when you use 3 colors. The best thing about using 3 colors is that when you go to change the color the next color is waiting right there for you, no carrying yarn required!

If you don’t know how to do Tunisian crochet yet, it’s really fun and you can learn with the Tunisian crochet tutorial.

Skill Level:

Finished Size: 6 1/2” (16.5 cm) long, 2” (5 cm) tall, ½” (1.5 cm) button diameter
Note: to alter size of the wrist warmer follow the directions with in the crochet pattern
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