Free Crochet Pattern: Christmas Ornament Favor Bag

By Amy Yarbrough – 19 Comments

It’s time to put a Christmas twist on our line of favor bags, don’t you think? The Christmas Ornament Favor Bag is designed after the classic frosted glass ornaments we put on our trees.

At first I was going to attempt tapestry crochet for the frosted effect but then the idea came to me to try the spike stitch. It took a few tries to get the right effect with the spikes, along with continuing the shaping of the ball, but I finally made it and I have to say, I like this a lot better than what I was first imagining. Plus, I would venture to add that this method is simpler.

Like the previous favor bag patterns, Carrot Favor Bag, Strawberry Favor Bag, Grape Cluster Favor Bag, and Orange and Blossoms Favor Bag, the Christmas Ornament Favor Bag is large enough for holding candy and other tiny trinkets we might want to give.

Want to give it a try? It’s not as difficult as you might think. You will find the instructions on how to work the spike stitch below. Enjoy!

Skill Level:

Finished Size: 6 ½” (16.5 cm) tall, 18” (45.5 cm) in circumference at widest point

Materials:
Medium weight yarn (approximately 45 yards of green, 25 yards of white, and 15 yards of silver)
Crochet hook 4.50 mm
Yarn needle
crochet yarn size 4

Gauge:
Rounds 1-2 in pattern measure 1″ in diameter

Need help understanding the abbreviations and symbols? Check out the crochet abbreviation chart.

How to crochet a spike: work a sc as normal, only instead of inserting the hook in the next st to draw up a loop, insert it directly below in a st a few rows down (pattern will direct on how many rows down to work). Pull up a loop and complete the stitch.

Crochet Pattern: Christmas Ornament Favor Bag
Round 1: with green, make an adjustable ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st in first sc: 6 sc
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc: 12 sc
Round 3: ch 1, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 18 sc
Round 4: ch 1, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 24 sc
Round 5: ch 1, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 30 sc
Round 6: ch 1, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 36 sc
Round 7: ch 1, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 42 sc
Round 8: ch 1, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 48 sc
Round 9: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc: 48 sc
Round 10: ch 1, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 54 sc
Round 11 – 12: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc: 54 sc
Round 13: ch 1, * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 60 sc
Round 14 – 16: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc: 60 sc
Round 17: ch 1, * sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 54 sc
Round 18: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc: 54 sc
Round 19: change to white, ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, * spike 7 rows down, sc in next 8 sc, repeat from * around, sc in last 4 sc, sl st in first sc: 54 sc
Round 20: ch 1, * sc2tog working first leg 6 rows down and next leg in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, spike 6 rows down over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 48 sc
Round 21: ch 1, * spike 5 rows down in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, spike 5 rows down over next sc, sc in next sc, spike 5 rows down over next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 48 sc
Round 22: ch 1, * sc2tog working first leg 4 rows down and next leg in next sc, spike 4 rows down over next sc, sc in next sc, spike 4 rows down over next sc, sc in next 2 sc, spike 4 rows down over next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 42 sc
Round 23: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc: 42 sc
Round 24: ch 1, * sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 36 sc
Round 25 – 27: ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st in first sc: 36 sc
Round 28: change to silver, ch 2, hdc in each sc around, sl st in first sc: 36 hdc
Round 29: ch 1, sc in next hdc, ch 1, skip next hdc, repeat from * around, sl st in first hdc: 18 sc
Round 30 – 31: ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st in first hdc: 36 hdc
Finish off.

Cut a length of silver yarn measuring 12″. Thread it through Round 29 so that it meets in front. Knot at the end.

Have any questions? Let me know in the comments below!

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19 Comments

  1. Twinkie Lover says:

    Very pretty!!!

  2. Tina says:

    I am teaching myself to crochet but and I am having problems with the spike stitch. Did you do a tutorial for this pattern? If so can you send me a link.

  3. VIRGINIA says:

    Love this ornament. I’m going to try it. Hope it turns out close to perfect as yours.

    • Hello Virginia, so sorry I didn’t respond sooner. I have not been receiving comment notifications and am finding numerous comments I’ve missed.

      I hope you enjoyed crocheting the pattern! I’m sure your bag looked absolutely superb.

      Keep crocheting,
      Amy

  4. Nina says:

    Hi. I am confused over row 20. I don’t know what kind of stitch ”leg” is and how I can do it six rows down. I have tried to look at your pictures to understand but no.
    Could you please explain or maybe link to a video?
    I have tried google it but can’t find anything.
    Thank you for a great pattern

    • Hello Nina,
      You’re very welcome for the patter. I’m glad you like it!

      Just to clarify, the term “leg” is not a stitch but the description of part of a stitch. What you are making is a single crochet decrease, called “single crochet 2 together” (sc2tog). The “legs” referred to in the instructions are the 2 single crochet stitches you are crocheting together. The first “leg” is the beginning of the first sc and the second “leg” is the beginning of the second sc, which are then finished together to make one stitch. By working the “legs” of the 2 different stitches 6 rows down, you also have the spike stitch. Does this help?

      Keep crocheting,
      Amy

  5. Brandee Franks says:

    I am having problems with row 20 as the * is not noted as to where to repeat from.

  6. Diane conserette says:

    I love this pattern but like to make one alittle smaller what do you suggest I do

    • Hello Diane,
      There are two ways to make a pattern smaller. The easiest way, and the way I would suggest, would be to use a smaller size yarn and corresponding hook. This way the pattern remains the same and only the materials change. The second way of making a pattern smaller would be to cut it down by a row or round, or a number of stitches. However, in this case that would require the pattern to be redesigned specifically for a smaller size, since any changes would alter the stitch count and thus ruin the spike design. Hope this helps!

      Amy

  7. Cathy says:

    Hi Amy. I freaky love this pattern and was so looking forward to making some but I’m having trouble with Row 21. It says there should be 48 sc when completing the row but the stitch count only comes up to 42. What stitch is missing and where in the sequence does it belong? Thank you for your help.

    • Cathy says:

      I’m also confused on Row 19. There isn’t any asterisk to indicate where to start the repeat from. My best guess is with the spike stitch but that leaves only 50 stitches instead of the indicated 54.

    • Hello Cathy,
      I’m glad you like my pattern! I have updated Round 19 so hopefully you shouldn’t have any trouble now.

      As for Round 21, it is an even round (no decreasing) so it should have the same number of stitches as the last round. Do you have 48 sts on Round 20?

      • Cathy Lewis says:

        Row 21 only has a stitch count of 7 total and with the repeats, there will only be 42 stitiches not 48.I do have 48 stitiches on Row 20 but I still cannot get Row 21 to match up.

      • Cathy says:

        Hi Amy. I do have 48 stitches on Row 20 but Row 21 has a repeat of 7 sts giving me a total of only 42 stitches (since it’s a 6 time repeat). Please help, I’m missing something.

        • Hm, you are right. It should be 8 sts, repeated 6 times.

          I’m trying to look back at my bag and see where the missing stitch could be. Could it be:
          Round 21: ch 1, * spike 5 rows down in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, spike 5 rows down over next sc, sc in next sc, spike 5 rows down over next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 48 sc

          It is either that, or
          Round 21: ch 1, * spike 5 rows down in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, spike 5 rows down over next sc, sc in next 2 sc, spike 5 rows down over next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first sc: 48 sc

          Does that help?

  8. Cathy says:

    Row 19 doors not have an asterisk to show where the repeat starts. If you repeat all the stitches, there will be 56 for the row and if you repeat just from the spike, there will only be 50. Please help!

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